Domaine de Boischampt, Jullié

Domaine de Boischampt, Jullié

Domaine de Boischampt is a property on the move, and is perhaps symbolic of the Beaujolais appellation today. The winery, with its sensitively restored high vaulted ceiling, is based in the beautiful hillside village of Jullié, and the domaine has been making wine in the Julienas region of northern Beaujolais since 1642. However, more recently the switch to selling the wine in bulk for Beaujolais Nouveau bottlings in the 1980s, changed the trajectory, belying the domaine’s long proud history and the quality of the blue stone soils upon which much of the its vineyards are rooted.

New ownership in 2018 recognized the pristine terroir whose blue stone soils are not uncoincidentally also found in the great Côte de Py vineyard of Morgon – and they set about transforming the domaine. Thibaud Baudin, with a winemaking CV encompassing Domaine de la Vougeraie and Domaine d’Henri, was brought in, and he set about replanting the vineyards, much of which are on vertiginous slopes of 45 degrees, and converting the property into organics, certified in 2023. Other bold decisions were made, none more so than preferring to plant three hectares of vines to Chardonnay rather than Gamay, with a belief that the white grape can prosper here. Fermentations here are spontaneous, with no fining or filtration, whilst sulphites are only used at bottling. Fifteen hectares are in production today, with a further ten in development. The wines here are wonderfully fresh, focused, and modern, and the future is genuinely exciting.

And so it proves in bottle, the white Beaujolais Jullié, is crisp with delightful crab apple fruit, and sits elegantly alongside a delicious structured Julienas, and a quite majestic Saint Amour, both from the local Gamay. Both these bottles can stand up to more hallowed Pinots of the Côte de Nuits.